RAF Sculthorpe – a relic of the Cold War.

In this second part of the Norfolk Trails, we visit three more of Norfolk’s treasures. Deep in the heart of Norfolk, two of them are very much complete, but the third is all but gone. However, all is not lost as it still an active private airfield, and some of its features have luckily survived.

The first of these three jewels on this trail is RAF Sculthorpe.

RAF Sculthorpe 

Located to the west of Norwich, Sculthorpe has its origins in the Second World War, but it has a larger claim to fame that it still retains to this day.

A once busy shop

A once busy shop now derelict and forgotten.

Designed initially as a heavy bomber site, and satellite to RAF West Raynham, Sculthorpe now has three runways one of 12,000ft and two of 6,000ft, all concrete. With its enormous technical and administration sites that housed up to 10,000 personnel, Sculthorpe was one of the biggest bases in Europe, an honour it retains to this day.

Sculthorpe had a limited Second World War life, being opened quite late in the war in January 1943. Following a years development and growth, it initially housed Mosquitos of 464 (RAAF) and 487 (RNZAF) squadrons.  Originally based at Methwold, the Mosquito FB.VIs replaced the earlier and slower twin-engined Venturas. At Sculthorpe, these two units were joined by 21 Sqn who stayed until the following December, before moving on. Then the much heavier B-17s of 214 sqn moved in thus changing the role of RAF Sculthorpe. The B-17s were redesigned and adapted to assist in radio jamming trials, the early form of Electronic Counter Measures (ECM), the B-17 crews would also be joined by other personnel from the United States, who stayed carrying out this role, until just prior to the end of hostilities.

Accomodation Block

Barrack Block

It was really at this time that Sculthorpe came into its own. With the influx of crews from the States, more accommodation would be needed and quickly. A sustained period of redevelopment, improving of runways and hardstandings, saw Sculthorpe gain the designation of Very Heavy Bomber base. It was anticipated that the enormous Boeing B-29s would be stationed here, but when the war in Europe came to an end, further deployment at Sculthorpe ceased and the B29s never arrived. However, the rise in ‘Soviet Aggression’ and post conflict tensions during the Cold War and Berlin airlift, secured the immediate future of Sculthorpe. Atomic weapons were stored here ready, when the North American B-45 Tornado found itself becoming the front-line four engined bomber designed to attack Soviet targets from the UK. During 1952, the 47th Bomb Wing of the Strategic Air Command were redeployed here from the United States. This wing consisted of the 84th, 85th, and 86th BS, along with the 420th Refueling Sqn and the 19th Tactical Reconnaissance sqn. These units operated a number of types including the: B-45, B-66, KB-29, KB-50, and RB-45C aircraft.

Control Tower

The Control Tower in a setting sun.

Ninety day duty rotations saw aircraft like the mighty B-36 ‘Peacemaker’ fill the skies over Sculthorpe, until finally, political agreements and imposed de-escalation strategies between the Cold War factions, prevented further deployment of large-scale US bombers on European soil.

Gradually, as nuclear deterrents turned to missiles and naval based platforms, Sculthorpe’s activity began to slow. Being returned to RAF ownership in 1964, it was placed in care and maintenance, and held by only a small detachment of support staff. Then in the late 60s, the USAF returned once more, needing a base from which to operate its aircraft whilst other airfields were redeveloped and runways resurfaced. This brought new life to Sculthorpe, American F-4 Phantoms and C-130s were based here, along with other aircraft types from the RAF operating under similar circumstances. This process went on well into the late 1980s and Sculthorpe became a mecca for plane spotters for at least another few years.

Airmens huts

‘Hut 380’, a Second World War remnant.

This was not to last however, and Sculthorpe finally closed its doors in 1992, the enormous accommodation blocks and technical sites were sold off. Both these and many of the remaining buildings were left to decay, whilst planners gae thought to what they should be used for. However, like a phoenix, Sculthorpe returned from the dead yet again. The RAF, Army Air Corps and USAF using it for manoeuvres, with tilt wing aircraft, paratroops and rehearsals of supply drops over its enormous runways; much of this activity taking place at night. Even up until recently, C-130s have also been seen landing here, again rehearsing quick ‘stop-‘n’-go’ drops.

Looking at Sculthorpe, it is hard to believe its origins were in the Second World War. Being a real monster of the Cold War, Sculthorpe is clinging on by the skin of its teeth. The accommodation blocks that once housed 10,000 personnel are decaying and vandalised, refurbished areas are now sold off and accommodating local families. A small industrial area has been developed from the technical area, and the local farmer grazes his cows on the far reaches of the site. Many of the older orignal buildings have been left to rot and fall down. The American authorities still retain some ownership of the site, whilst a large part of it is in private hands.

Technical site buildings

A large part of Sculthorpe has been left to rot, piece by piece.

The original guard-house is no longer manned, and a number of other buildings close by are also empty. A small public track that once took eager plane spotters to the rear of the airfield, still allows views across the north of the now quiet site where a blister hangar continues to stand alone. The control tower is still intact visible in the distance from this point, as are a number of original Nissan huts and Second World War buildings hidden amongst new buildings and old developments.

Reunion 'memorial'

In remembrance of the 47th BW, 50th anniversary reunion, 2002.

Sculthorpe was once a bustling airfield, home to some of the world’s heaviest bombers, a mecca for aviation enthusiasts and plane spotters alike. Today, it is a decaying industrial site, a mix of old buildings and new developments, a remnant of the Cold War, it clings on to life by the skin of its teeth, maybe, just maybe, the Phoenix will rise up once more and spring into life again.

Blister Hangar

Sculthorpe’s remaining Blister hangar in a low setting sun.

From Sculthorpe, we travel a few miles south, a stones throw, to its sister station and another post war relic – RAF West Raynham.

Gloucester – RAF Stoke Orchard

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An original Bellman Hangar, rusty but in use.

It’s always good to receive comments and have interaction with readers on trails. Contact from such a reader promoted a good discussion around the state of many of these airfield and the changes seen in relatively short periods of time. It surprised both of us how much had changed and not for the better!

A fellow enthusiast and reader, Steve Darnell, kindly offered to share his photos with me and take me to a local but little known about airfield within a few minutes of his home near Gloucester – RAF Stoke Orchard.

RAF Stoke Orchard

There is little information available about Stoke Orchard, but it is known that a small number of units were based here between September 1941 and January 1945: No 3 GTS, (Glider Training School), No 5 MU, (Maintenance Unit) , No 10 EFTS, (Elementary Flying Training School)  along with a WAAF Officers’ School all utilised the site during this time.

Having a relief landing ground at Northleach, Stoke Orchard airfield was built with four grass runways: N/S – 1,090 yds, NE/SW – 1,160 yds, E/W – 1,160 yds, and NW/SE – 1,125 yds. It had a number of hangars: 4 Bellman, 8 double Blisters, 1 treble Blister and four single blisters. Accommodation was provided for 645 RAF personnel and 201 WAAFs. Other buildings on the site included the accommodation blocks, technical buildings, hospital, AA defences and a wooden Control Tower.

As a training station, there were around 50 Tiger Moths based here, which were later replaced by gliders.

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Bellman Hangar door runners.

After the war, the site quickly closed, and Stoke Orchard fell into disrepair. However, the Gloster run factory across the road at the northern side of the site, continued to use the airfield to ferry aircraft away from the site. The aircraft were maneuvered over the road and through a gate onto the airfield; the gate now a gap in the hedge and the factory used for research into coal.

Several parts of the perimeter track still remain today, now used by farmers, they mark the extent of the site which for its origin and purpose, is quite large. The four Bellman hangars are also still in situ, three of them having been substantially reinforced and refurbished, the fourth being in its original shell. Even with the refurbished covers, the internal structures are evident as are racking points, evidence of additional work being carried out on them during their original use.

The Hangar door rails can also be seen embedded in the concrete floor, and a large concrete area, to the front of the sites is where the control tower stood along with other technical buildings.

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Part of the Perimeter Track.

Part of the site is now a waste disposal site and along this road can be found examples of both a Cold War relic, the Royal Observer Post, and a bunker, a rare type called a ‘Seagull Trench’ due to its shape. These trenches were used for airfield defence in the case of attack or invasion. Both are intact, but the bunker has had several fires lit inside it severely damaging the internal structures.

A number of brick mounds are also embedded in the hedgerows, bits of pottery and other remnants can also be found for those wishing to get in amongst the thorns and delve deeply.

Little else survives of the airfield, and little is known or recorded about its activities. There are mentions of ex-POWs using it as a ‘squat’ post war and families living in its accommodation blocks, but it appears that Stoke Orchard is another site that has quietly disappeared leaving only small relics behind to remind us of this once active airfield.

My sincerest gratitude goes to Steve and Michelle for their generous hospitality, and for opening their home up to me. I would also like to thank Steve for the loan of the books, CDs and for giving me the many photos for safe keeping.  A real gent.

Stoke Orchard is also very close to the Jet Age Museum based in the corner of Gloucester Airport, formally Staverton, and is open on certain days in the summer.

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A Seagull trench used for Airfield defence.